What to use instead of gruyere
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
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Cheese that melts smooth without splitting
It is aged long enough for the protein to melt evenly but keeps enough moisture and fat to flow rather than break, and the aging gives it a nutty flavour that survives being thinned.
Comte or BeaufortRan out
1:1 by weight
The closest swap there is. Comte is fruitier and sweeter and sets very slightly firmer as it cools.
Emmental with aged cheddar or parmesanRan out
2/3 cup Emmental plus 1/3 cup aged cheddar per 1 cup Gruyere
Emmental alone melts stringy and tastes thin, and the cheddar is what puts the missing savour back.
RacletteRan out
1:1 by weight
Melts looser and smoother with a stronger barnyard smell, and it sets rubbery once it drops below warm.
Aged GoudaRan out
1:1 by weight
Sweeter and more caramel-tasting, and drier, so the sauce needs an extra splash of liquid to come together.
What doesn't work: Pre-shredded Swiss from a bag. The anti-caking starch stops it emulsifying, so a fondue seizes into a rubbery lump under a slick of oil however much wine you whisk in.
Dry cheese folded into a dough or a pastry
An aged, low-moisture cheese adds flavour without wetting the dough, and it browns in place rather than running out onto the tray.
ComteRan out
1:1 by weight
Fruitier and a touch sweeter, and gougeres puff to exactly the same height.
ParmesanRan out
3/4 cup grated per 1 cup Gruyere
Saltier and drier, so cut the salt in the dough. Gougeres come out crisper and less chewy.
Aged GoudaRan out
1:1 by weight
Browns faster and sweeter, and the edges of a tart can catch before the middle has set.
Sharp cheddarRan out
1:1 by weight
It releases more fat and pools on the tray, so gougeres spread wider and puff less.
What doesn't work: Fresh mozzarella or any wet cheese. The water goes straight into the choux or the pastry, so gougeres stay heavy and squat and a tart base turns soggy under the filling.
Browned blistered lid over a bowl or a gratin
It browns into a chewy blanket with an even bubble and holds together across the top of the bowl instead of sliding off the edge.
ComteRan out
1:1 by weight
The same blanket with a slightly sweeter finish and the same pull when you break through it.
Emmental with parmesanRan out
3/4 cup Emmental plus 1/4 cup parmesan per 1 cup Gruyere
Browns in distinct spots and pulls into longer strings, and the parmesan supplies the savour Emmental lacks.
RacletteRan out
1:1 by weight
Runs loose and drips down into the soup rather than staying as a lid, and it goes rubbery within a couple of minutes.
What doesn't work: Sliced processed Swiss. The emulsifying salts in it stop it browning, so it melts flat and pale into a film across the bowl and never blisters.