What to use instead of swiss cheese
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
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Melting cheese in a pressed or griddled sandwich
Alpine cheeses are washed-curd and low in acid, so the protein stays loose at 60C and the cheese flows into a sheet instead of splitting into rubber and grease.
GruyereRan out
Match by weight
Nuttier and considerably saltier, melts looser, and browns harder against the pan. Take salt off the rest of the sandwich.
Young Emmental or JarlsbergRan out
Match by weight
Milder and sweeter with a longer stretch. Melts at a lower temperature, so the sandwich is ready before the bread is properly crisp.
Fontina or young GoudaRan out
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Buttery and very soft once melted, so it runs out of the sides under a press. Almost no nutty note.
Mild provoloneRan out
Match by weight
Melts just as smoothly with a tangier, more lactic finish. Browns pale, so the sandwich looks underdone even when it is not.
Low-moisture mozzarellaRan out
Match by weight
Melts and stretches beautifully and brings almost no flavour. A Reuben made with it needs the mustard doubled.
What doesn't work: Sharp aged cheddar or anything two years and older. High acid and low moisture make the protein contract under heat, so it breaks into oil and grainy curds and slides off the meat in one piece.
Cheese melted into a sauce, gratin or noodle dish
It emulsifies into hot starch and butter without stringing into a knot, so kasespatzle and pizzoccheri come out coated rather than clumped.
Gruyere or ComteRan out
Match by weight
Deeper and saltier, and both hold together at a higher temperature than young Swiss. The sauce browns more under a grill.
Italian fontinaRan out
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The loosest melt of the group, closer to fondue. It goes greasy if the pan gets past a bare simmer.
RacletteRan out
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Melts flat and even with a stronger washed-rind smell that carries through the whole dish. Salty, so hold back on seasoning.
Aged Gouda plus cornstarchRan out
1 tsp cornstarch tossed through every cup of grated cheese
Caramel-sweet and much more assertive. The starch is what stops an aged cheese from breaking, so skipping it undoes the swap.
What doesn't work: Adding any of these to a sauce that is still bubbling. Above about 85C the casein tightens and squeezes the fat out, and the pan turns into a greasy pool with strings in it. Take it off the heat, then stir the cheese in.
Firm slices or batons served cold
Low moisture and a close texture mean it cuts into clean pieces that stay separate on the plate and taste mild enough to sit under a dressing.
JarlsbergRan out
Match by weight
Sweeter and softer under the knife, with the same big holes. Sticks to itself if it sits out, so cut it cold.
Young Gouda or EdamRan out
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Waxier bite and a milky, less nutty flavour. Holds a baton shape even at room temperature.
Monterey JackRan out
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Softer and blander, so it goes tacky in the fingers and adds nothing but richness. Dice it rather than slicing it thin.
MuensterRan out
Match by weight
Springier and more savoury, and it browns visibly at the cut edge after a day in the fridge.
What doesn't work: Fresh mozzarella or burrata. Both are packed in water, so they tear rather than dice and they shed liquid onto the plate, which thins the dressing and leaves the salad tasting washed out.