It thickens by reduction, not by flour or cornstarch, so the whole job is patience and a wooden spoon: keep the milk at a bare simmer and scrape the bottom constantly for the better part of an hour while it cooks down and the rice falls apart. Walk away and it scorches on the bottom in minutes.
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Published July 2026 · Sourcing verified 5 Jul 2026
Prep10 min
Cook50 min
Makes6 servings
CuisineIndian
Part One
The Ingredients — and where to get them
Basmati rice
A small handful; it swells and breaks down to thicken the milk. Aged basmati holds its perfume.
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