What to use instead of palm sugar
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
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The sweet leg of a fish sauce, lime and chile dressing
Its caramel and faint smoke sit under the salt and acid rather than on top of them, and it dissolves into a syrup that binds the dressing instead of settling out.
Coconut sugarRan out
Match by weight
The closest of the lot. Drier and slightly more acidic, and it dissolves faster because it comes already granulated.
Dark brown sugarRan out
Match by weight
Molasses-forward, which reads as heavier and slightly bitter against fish sauce. Fine in a som tam and obvious in a delicate dressing.
Jaggery, gratedRan out
Match by weight
Earthier and more mineral, and the harder cakes stay gritty in a cold dressing unless they are melted in a spoon of warm water first.
Maple syrupRan out
3 tbsp per 60 g palm sugar, and cut 1 tbsp of liquid elsewhere
Dissolves instantly and brings an unmistakable maple note that sits oddly with fish sauce. Thinner, so the dressing coats less.
White sugar with molassesRan out
60 g white sugar + 1 tsp molasses per 60 g palm sugar
Close on colour and body. Cleaner and flatter, with none of the smoky note, and it dissolves fastest of all.
What doesn't work: Honey. Its floral aroma fights fish sauce directly, and it will not dissolve into a cold dressing, so it sits in a lump at the bottom of the bowl and the last spoonful is all sweetness.
Sugar that caramelises on grilled meat or in a braise
It carries invert sugars and trace minerals alongside sucrose, and those brown at a lower temperature, so moo ping colours in minutes over charcoal without the meat overcooking.
Coconut sugarRan out
Match by weight
Browns on the same schedule and tastes marginally less smoky. It burns just as readily, so keep the skewers moving.
Dark brown sugarRan out
Match by weight
Browns faster and darker than palm sugar and turns bitter sooner, so move the skewers to the cooler side of the grill earlier.
Jaggery, melted into the marinadeRan out
Match by weight
Deeper and more mineral, and it lacquers heavily. It has to be dissolved into the wet marinade or it sits in lumps against the meat.
HoneyRan out
3 tbsp per 60 g palm sugar
Browns fastest of everything here because it is mostly fructose, so the skewers can char in half the usual time. Watch them constantly.
What doesn't work: White granulated sugar weight for weight. It sweetens the marinade the same amount and browns noticeably slower with no caramel or molasses note behind it, so the meat comes off the grill pale and flatly sweet.