What to use instead of pine nuts
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
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Toasted crunch scattered over rice, meat or a dip
They are nearly all fat with very little starch, so they toast to a soft crunch that gives way in the mouth instead of snapping like a hard nut.
Slivered blanched almondsRan out
1:1 by volume, toasted 2 to 3 minutes longer
Harder and drier, and they snap rather than yield. This is the standard Levantine pairing anyway, so nothing tastes out of place.
Raw pistachios, halvedRan out
1:1 by volume
Sweeter and greener, and they stay crunchy under a hot topping for far longer. They colour the dish, which is fine on rice and loud on white fish.
Cashew halvesRan out
1:1 by volume
Softest of the group and the closest in richness. They go from pale to burnt in about 40 seconds, so toast them off the direct flame.
Sunflower seedsNut-free
1:1 by volume, dry-toasted 4 min
Smaller, drier and more seedy on the palate, and they read as a deliberate choice rather than a stand-in. They also stay crunchy in a wet dish.
Pumpkin seedsNut-free
1:1 by volume, dry-toasted until they pop
Chewier and greener with a hollow crunch. They dominate a delicate pilaf, so chop them once before scattering.
What doesn't work: Walnuts on a pale, delicate dish such as a white pilaf or a fish plate. The skins are tannic and turn bitter and grey once they sit under something hot, which is why they belong in a pomegranate sauce and not on top of rice.
Ground into a sauce or paste for body
The fat and soft cell walls break down into a creamy suspension that holds oil and water together, which is what keeps a pesto from splitting on hot pasta.
Walnuts, skins rubbed offRan out
Match by weight
Creamier and heavier, with a tannic bitterness that shows up most in a raw sauce. Rubbing the skins off after a 60 second blanch takes most of it out.
Cashews soaked in hot waterRan out
Match by weight, soaked 15 min and drained
Sweeter, paler and thicker than pine nut pesto. The sauce sets up firmer in the fridge, so loosen it with pasta water.
Blanched almondsRan out
Match by weight
Grittier unless the blender runs a full minute longer. This is the Sicilian version, so it tastes correct with tomato and basil.
Sunflower seedsNut-free
Match by weight
Emulsifies as well as any nut and turns the sauce a duller green-grey. More assertive, so pull the garlic back by a clove.
What doesn't work: Leaving the nut out and adding more oil and cheese to compensate. The nut is the emulsifier, and without it the sauce separates in the bowl and runs off the pasta into a pool at the bottom.