What to use instead of white wine
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
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Deglazing a pan and thinning the sauce
Acid and water dissolve the browned bits stuck to the pan, and the alcohol carries aroma that water leaves behind. Both boil off and what stays is a sauce sharper than stock alone.
Dry vermouthRan out
1:1
Herbal and a shade sweeter. It keeps for months open, which is why restaurant kitchens use it. Pull back to 3/4 under delicate fish.
Dry sherryRan out
Half the volume, made up with water
Nutty and oxidised. It sits well with mushrooms and chicken and reads odd under white fish.
Stock plus white wine vinegarNo alcohol
1 cup stock + 1 tbsp white wine vinegar
Lifts the fond just as well. The acid is flatter and one-note, so add it at the end rather than reducing it hard.
Water plus lemon juiceNo alcohol
1 cup water + 2 tsp lemon juice
Cleans the pan and adds nothing else, so the sauce leans entirely on the fond. Salt it harder than you would with wine.
What doesn't work: Sweet wine such as moscato or an off-dry riesling at 1:1. The sugar concentrates as the pan reduces and the sauce turns syrupy and candied over savoury meat.
Acid and liquid in a long braise
Over an hour the alcohol goes and the acid stays, which keeps a fatty braise from tasting heavy and gives the finished sauce a backbone once it has reduced.
Dry vermouthRan out
1:1
The herbs concentrate over a long cook, so a two-hour braise tastes faintly of bay and wormwood. Use 3/4 and top up with stock.
Dry ciderRan out
1:1
Apple sweetness that suits pork and chicken. Less acid than wine, so finish with a squeeze of lemon.
Stock plus white wine vinegarNo alcohol
1 cup stock + 2 tbsp white wine vinegar per 1 cup wine
The braise is savoury from the first minute rather than fruity. Watch the salt, since stock concentrates as the pot reduces.
White grape juice plus vinegarNo alcohol
1 cup unsweetened white grape juice + 2 tbsp white wine vinegar per 1 cup wine
Closest to the fruit of wine. Still sweeter, so pull any honey or sugar out of the recipe.
What doesn't work: Cooking wine from the vinegar aisle. It is salted to around 1.5 percent so it can be sold outside the liquor licence, and a cup of it in a braise that reduces by half puts the dish past saving.
The body of a mulled or spiced drink
Here the wine is the drink, so a swap has to bring tannin, acid and enough weight to stand under cinnamon, clove and citrus. Without grip the pot tastes like hot squash.
Alcohol-free white wineNo alcohol
1:1
Right acid, thinner body, noticeably sweeter. Cut the recipe sugar by half and taste before adding any back.
Strong black tea plus white grape juiceNo alcohol
2 cups strong black tea + 2 cups white grape juice per 750 ml wine, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice
Tea tannin does the gripping the wine used to. The pot goes browner and the spices sit in it properly instead of floating on sugar.
Cloudy apple cider, non-alcoholicNo alcohol
1:1, plus 1 tbsp lemon juice per cup
Rounder and apple-forward. It takes cinnamon and star anise well and makes clove taste stronger than it does in wine.
What doesn't work: White grape juice on its own. With no tannin and no acid it goes cloying after two mouthfuls hot, and the spices sit on top of it rather than in it.