What to use instead of eggs
It depends entirely on what it's doing in the dish. Here's the job, what else does it, and what to skip.
Advertisement
Binder in meatballs, patties and fritters
Egg protein unfolds as it heats and knits the loose pieces together, while the yolk fat keeps the set soft instead of rubbery.
Flax eggPlant-based
1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water, stand 10 min, per egg
Binds well in anything dense. Adds dark specks and a nutty, slightly grassy taste, and the mixture stays wetter, so chill it before shaping.
Chia eggPlant-based
1 tbsp ground chia + 3 tbsp water, stand 10 min, per egg
Grips harder than flax and tastes of less. Whole seeds stay crunchy, so grind them.
Panade of bread and milkEgg-free
1 slice torn white bread + 3 tbsp milk per 500 g of meat, in place of 1 egg
Softer and juicier than egg-bound meat. It holds a meatball fine and struggles in a thin patty that gets flipped.
Aquafaba, the liquid from a can of chickpeasPlant-based
3 tbsp per whole egg
Binds and browns without adding flavour. Slightly looser mix, and it will not set as firm as egg in something thick.
What doesn't work: Mayonnaise. It is 80 percent oil with only a trace of yolk, so it loosens the mixture instead of tightening it. The fat renders out in the pan and the patties fall to pieces.
Setting a custard, quiche or pastry cream
Yolk and white proteins unwind around 80C and knit into a mesh that traps the liquid in place. Almost nothing else in a kitchen sets a liquid that gently.
Cornstarch, for pastry cream and pie fillingsEgg-free
2 tbsp cornstarch per 1 cup milk
Sets by boiling, so it has to bubble for a full minute or it will loosen again. Glossier, whiter, and it lacks the custard smell.
Blended silken tofu, for savoury custardsPlant-based
340 g silken tofu + 2 tbsp cornstarch per 3 eggs
Sets firm enough to slice and stays that way cold. The top will not brown or souffle, and it needs more salt than you expect.
Chickpea flour batter, for a frittata or crustless quichePlant-based
1 cup chickpea flour + 1 cup water, rest 20 min, per 3 to 4 eggs
Sets solid and sliceable with a golden face. Tastes raw and beany until it is fully cooked through, so give it the extra 10 minutes.
What doesn't work: A flax or chia egg. They gel in cold water and stay a gel, so nothing knits when the heat arrives. Quiche filling stays loose and weeps water into the pastry.
Egg wash for glue, gloss and colour
The protein tacks crumbs and seeds onto the surface, then browns hard in the oven because it brings both protein and sugar to the reaction.
Milk or cream brushed thinEgg-free
1:1 by volume
Browns evenly but soft and matte. No gloss and no deep mahogany colour.
Olive oil or melted butter, for breadingEgg-free
Brush a thin coat, then crumb immediately
The crumb layer goes on thinner and patchier and sheds more in the pan. Colour comes from the fat frying rather than from protein.
AquafabaPlant-based
1:1, brushed
Gives a genuine shine with almost no colour. Add 1/2 tsp maple syrup per tbsp if you want it to brown.
Plant milk with syrupPlant-based
2 tbsp oat or soy milk + 1 tsp maple syrup
Colours well because of the sugar, and burns quicker at the edges. Matte finish.
What doesn't work: Water. Crumbs stick to it for about a minute and then slide off in the pan, and pastry brushed with it bakes to a dull grey with a papery skin.
Recipes assume large eggs, about 50 g out of the shell. If yours are jumbo, weigh them or the wet balance goes off.